We had a busy day in Khovd and eventually made progress after asking lots of people where we could find what we needed. The difficulty finding things in Mongolia (for foreigners new to the place) is that everything is behind closed doors. There are no shop windows and obviously the signs are not easy to understand and very often include no pictures of what lies within.

The one big problem that we have to overcome is the failure of our laptop. As we rely on it for updating the web, communicating with home, storage for photos and video …. etc etc. In the end we managed to find a store that sold reasonably priced  laptops that are preloaded with US windows and Photoshop. It is called Best Electronics and the young owner spoke perfect English and was very helpful. We will edit this post later to put in his details. We also needed diesel, water, camera card, batteries for our watches (which both failed due to the cold) and some fishing flies to replace the ones of Steve that I lost! Apart from the laptop and the diesel, we were pretty unsuccessful ….. it was also hot during the day and dust was swirling around.

We will sort out a few pictures of the town later.

After leaving our camping spot we drove the short way back to Sailau’s family and he greeted us like long lost family. He is such a nice man! We went straight in for chai and watched while they all dressed up for a wedding that they were going to later. Just before we left Marjool was given a scarf and I was given a hat.

We also said goodbye to the group that we had tea with yesterday. We would like to see Andrews photos one day as he has been on expeditions to both the North and South Poles. I am sure that one day we will see Andrew and Catherine in Devon?

We were planning to take the back road as we had images of the main road to Khovd being big and busy. In Russia we enjoyed the back roads as you can stop easily wherever you like. In fact when we got to it the major roads are still pretty rough and quiet!

Sailau very kindly hopped into the car to show us where the ‘road’ started. He took us a few Km’s to a y junction and pointed left, gave us a big hug and then started walking back. He had told us to keep the mountain on our left and that is what we did. However it was 190 km to Khovd and so we would have to get more guidance or would be going in a circle!

In Mongolia a road is defined as ‘Where someone has driven before’. They continually split into for or five ways and it is difficult to tell where a fork is really a junction or a route around an obstacle or just a track to a ger. You really do need a good compass or sat nav to show direction and your position. Garmin Worldmap is handy as it shows the major roads and towns and so you can check you are heading in the right direction. Its not quite that simple as you cannot see which valley or pass you will take, and so sometimes you think that you are going wrong, when you are really just passing a natural obstacle which means heading in the wrong direction for a while. At times, you think that you must be on the wrong track as it is so small … then suddenly it joins another one and you think all is well again. At the same time you need to concentrate hard as there are sharp rocks, potholes, deep sand and boggy spots …. great fun!

The road was good and fast in some places, over rocks and boulders in other and snowy peaks surrounded us as we headed south to join the main road to Khovd.

As we got to the very remote and rough bits we were pleased to have a sturdy car. The roads are unforgiving and although you could manage most with a standard car, you have to consider what you would do if you broke down. It is very remote and some places you don’t see a soul for 30 or 40 km.

We found a nice spot by a spring for a coffee break …. no vehicles had been past in either direction for an hour or so. It was so quiet. The blue scarf tied on a stick by the spring, complete with money offerings reminded us of friends at home!

Further along the road we passed a herd of yaks, they looked just as you imagine them, at home in the mountains.

Further along we thought that we were getting lost and so Graham went to ask directions. Mongolians all seem to understand maps and are always really helpful.

As it happens we had arrived at the point where the ‘main road’ met our track. We celebrated with lunch. The wind in the valley was so cold and strong that we ate in the camper.

When we continued after lunch we met a group of men who worked for a copper and gold mine. They had driven across from UB for the eagle festival, fishing in the lakes by the Chinese border and to explore the west. They had a 75 series LC and a defender 110. Both were well equipped. We said that we would meet in UB if we got there in time for a beer in the Irish pub!

Although it is the main road in the south of Mongolia from west to east, it is still a dirt road and being well used gets corrugations and potholes and lots of rocks to avoid. Much easier to navigate though. Soon after getting on the road we got to a rickety wooden bridge that was closed.

There was a well used river crossing that at this time of the year is low. Coming here in the spring or early summer would be different for two reasons. Firstly there would be mosquitoes and flies (we have seen no mozzies and only a few flies) and secondly the rivers would be high and there would be mud. Maybe the perfect time to visit is the second half of August? Now is great but for our camper cold at night. We really need a diesel heater.

Further along the road we saw camels.

We got to Khovd at around 6.00 pm and took a quick look around before heading back towards the river to camp at a spot where a ger had recently been moved. It seems that there are different camps for each season and now people are moving to their winter site.

Tomorrow we have a website to update and things to do in town and so will not be a big post day!

Sailau and his family have started taking in a few tourists to show them what life is like for a nomadic herdsman and particularly those Kazakhs who still hunt with Golden eagles. The family are fantastic and very welcoming. We had our accommodation in the camper but those who would like to can stay in a ger. first job in the morning was milking the goats.

After chai in the ger, we went up to the mountain with Sailau, his son and the eagle. There was also another small group of tourists (4) who had come with Panoramic Journeys (Check them out on google!). The view from the top was great and we looked across and spotted a nice place to camp by the river.

We then watched Sailau training the eagle ready for the big eagle festival near Olgiy that was to take place at the weekend.

The group was then due to drive off to see the eagles nest, but we decided that we wanted to drive across the valley to our next camping spot. We were going to go back to the ger the following morning to say goodbye.

We needed a shower and we needed to wash clothes so we put a solar shower out, firstly on top of the engine and then in the sun. We also lit a fire with twigs from the river bank and dung that we collected around the campspot.

The spot was so nice that we said it would be nice to text the others that we had been with this morning to invite them for tea. We had only just agreed that we would do it when we heard a truck in the distance. They had the same idea! We drank tea and played boules … the Mongolians had not seen it before and loved it! We need to make sure Panoramic Journeys brings a set for next season … please Olly!

They stayed for a while and then we had our shower and started setting up the fishing gear. It was starting to get cold by the time fishing started but there was a bite almost every cast with great big grasshopper flies that Steve T had lent me. Unfortunately I owe him a couple as my line was not up to those huge lures!

Not sure what the fish was but think it was a greyling … I say was as we cooked it for tea … no wonder …. we are not getting fat!

The view across the river was nice and there were camels roaming around.

Looking back away from the river the view was also amazing!

It was starting to get really cold again and so we decided to wrap all the stones` from the camp fire in a blanket and put them in the camper as a sort of storage heater. It was lovely and the hot water bottle was filled from river water heated by dung … that’s got to be eco friendly!

The temperature that night dropped to -3.5 C outside, and in the camper -2.0 C.

We are now staying in a fantastic location next to the gers owned by the Sailau family. We followed a guide Agii from the border at Tashanta to Olgiy which was around 90km where we went to the bank and got a 3G card for the phone (pay as you go with Mobicom). We then followed him a further 45 km across dry river beds and through mountain passes to the gers.

Sailau is the man that was shown hunting with eagles on the BBC series Human Planet. We were going out with him tomorrow to see the eagle in action on the mountain just a few kms from the ger.

We had a quick look at the eagle and then went with Sailau and some of the family to a mini Nadaam Festiva. We filled our camper up with 8 people(!) and bounced across a couple of valleys to an event that was very small and local. Great fun though.

The first event was horse racing (10 km). The horses were very placid, small and did not have names. They were also incredibly sure footed on the rough ground. There was then wrestling and then more horse racing.

The horses had travelled from all the different gers/valleys before the race even started. They are tough horses.

Next was the wrestling … bitterly cold wind for wearing this gear.

Everyone was cold and had to huddle together to keep warm.

First we were invited to a meal in a ger close to the Nadaam. It was an amazing spread but were too shy to take pictures as everyone who attended the event took turns to eat. We then went back to the ger for chai (milky tea).

Tomorrow we see the eagle in action with luck!

Woke up this morning to snow! The pictures are not great but at least you can see what it is like here.

Looking along the border, barbed wire snakes across the hills marking the Russian boundary. In between Russia and Mongolia is 10km of no man’s land. As far as we can see, the roads still look clear. The Mongolian border is another 500m higher and so it may be different there.

The boarder post is just in front of the camper. We are first in the queue …. can’t imagine why more people are not camping! Just us and a lorry driver from Kazakstan.

I think this is the first snow that Troopy will have seen …. or maybe the Snowy Mountains?

Finally Sally and Mick are trying to positively identify the bird! It was about 350 to 400mm from the top of the post to the tip of its head and although a poor picture it looked like this as it flew away!

So all going well we will move through the Russian side of the border in an hour. Then off to meet Agii and the eagle hunter!

After looking around Kosh Agach for a place to stay and not finding anywhere that took our fancy, we drove towards the next village. On the way we went through a road block, which is basically a military passport check point. To proceed further you need a valid visa for Mongolia. The next village was very small and due to the cold there were few people around to ask about camping. We opted for a high profile spot in the centre of the square of grassland around which the village was built. It was starting to get really windy so we pointed the camper into the wind to reduce the chance of damage to the pop top. In the morning the hills around us were covered in a small layer of snow.

The village was small but still had a tiny fuel station, a war memorial and a small mosque.

As we drove out towards Tashanta we saw what I think was our first eagle. I’m no bird expert but it certainly wasn’t a pigeon!

Again the views as we drove towards Tashanta were amazing! The stormy skies making them all the more dramatic.

On the grasslands all around us we could see horsemen working herds of goats. The views just don’t look real, and we almost have to pinch ourselves to check that we are really here!

We arrived at Tashanta and drove up to the border to make sure it really is closed on a Sunday and then went to find a spot to camp for a few hours. We would then move right to the border to sleep in case there is a queue in the morning.

The picture is taken from the hill next to the last 3G mast in Russia! The MTS (MTC) card has been great. Total cost 200Rub per month for 3G plus 3Rub per day standing charge, and 3Rub per min to any network anywhere in Russia. Only snag is that you need an address to get the sim. You will need the help of a Russian. Thanks Olga!!

Soon after we arrived we were visited by local kids looking for sweets, one even asked if he could have my rucksack. The kids here seem to have been slightly corrupted by the large numbers of Mongol Rally visitors they get each year. We have not seen it anywhere else in Russia. The kids were sweet though!

Those Tele Tubbies get everywhere! Fingers crossed we will be in Mongolia tomorrow!

It was surprisingly warm last night, hardly needed the big new duvet! Clouds had formed during the night keeping it relatively warm. Caught up with a few e-mails this morning before heading off towards Kosh – Agash which is only about 90 km down the Chuysky Trakt. After that it is just 73 km to the border. On the way we decided to fill up with water. The bottles and tanks total about 75 litres plus we have another 5 litres of bought bottled water. It turned out that it was a sacred spring.

In the trees you can see the prayer ribbons they are placed their by locals for which animism is part of their religion. It is basically a primal belief in the presence of spirits or spiritual qualities in objects of the natural world, particularly peaks and springs and their spirits are thanked with token offerings (ribbons, stone cairns, coins, vodka bottles) which you commonly find around holy trees and mountain passes.

I’m not quite sure I understand why vodka bottles should be included? Makes me wonder if camp fires are given the same treatment as they are also often piled up with them as well!

Again the views along the road were amazing and we stopped several times just to sit and look and sometimes fish.

The trees are starting to change colour now. It is definitely the end of the season. Lots of the little camps where you can stay in huts are closed down and some of the cafes along the way have been boarded up.

As we carried on towards Kosh Agach the scenery got drier and drier.

The town of Kosh Agach is a really dry dusty place, but people are still friendly and smiley.

It is always interesting to see how other people build!

The counterbalance on the crane is an old crankshaft and a bucket of ballast.

Final stop before we left to find a place to stay was the supermarket.

It may not be much to look at but has pretty much all you need. Next stop …. Tashanta.

I know we keep saying it, but any time now we are going to run out of 3G and there will be a big gap in posts. You can still see where we are by hitting the link on the home page …. as long as we remember to press the button on the spot!

Woke up this morning to views across the mountains that looked very different in the early light.

The route between Onguday and Aktash is amazing. Fantastic scenery, good roads and the weather has been great. Here are some images on the way.

Bee hives and honey house. Sorry Sally could not ask them about bee diseases (language barrier!)

Every so often the road climbed up to a pass. Mostly the road just winds along beside the river and so there are not many big climbs.

Lots of places in Russia have ramps where you can repair your car. The villages often have shared ones for use by the community. In these remote places everyone seems to work on their own vehicle, and often have a spare one outside their gate. Even more Ladas in these villages.

Having a 4×4 would not be essential for the route that we have taken so far, however we would not have been able to access some of the best riverside spots or the camping spots above the towns. A good strong vehicle is also useful for some of the potholed roads we have been on.

We have started to see more houses that look like permanent gers. Some of them look very tempting to stay in, but we are very comfortable in Troopy and have slept in it every night except three since  leaving home. Two of those in Pskov (Olga’s friends flat) and one night in a hotel, where we thought we had arranged camping in the car park!

Every corner brings another fantastic view.

Everybody is busy bringing back their winter feed. We have seen some lorries with twice as much as this one, but have never managed to take a picture.

Further along the road we saw a massive fire in the mountains. Should be a good sunset!

Just before we got to Aktash, we saw our first glimpse of a snow capped peak. I think that we drive very close to it on the way to Tashanta.

Now we need to find a spot for the night.

We drove into Aktash and bought fuel, but decided to backtrack slightly to the village before where we had seen a spot by a stream. It seemed fine and the people who stopped by were friendly and so we decided to stay.

We will move about 60km closer to the  Mongolian border tomorrow.

Last night was our coldest so far. We have not looked at the spot locator page and so not sure of the altitude, but we still are much lower than we will be as we get closer to the border. The camper has no insulation in the roof and the sides are basically tent material and so the inside and outside temperature is similar. Last night it was 2.7 deg C outside and 3.6 inside when I checked in the early hours. Forget saucy nighties, this is thermals and bobble hat territory!

However we have two duvets, two thin blankets …. toasty! When it gets colder we have a couple of fleece sleeping bags and finally silk liners. Only real problem is the condensation on the roof and sides when very cold. The clear blue sunny days make it easy to dry things and temperatures climb really fast as soon as the sun is out. It’s fantastic weather and because we are late in the season there are no mosquitoes to worry about.

Our day today was very relaxed as we do not want to travel too high too soon before we are due to enter Mongolia. We actually only travelled about 70km before we stopped for the day! We needed 3G to finish more paperwork (which we still only half finished!) and the scenery was nice …. so we stopped. It’s so much nicer when you don’t have to rush. During our morning coffee stop we spoke to two Russian bikers who were just on their way back from the Russian/Mogolian border. They loved the camper as they are really rare in Russia (any sort of camper). We have also only seen three caravans here and one of those was German.

The other odd thing is that we have not seen another UK number plate on the whole trip through Russia, and only about 3 or 4 European plates!

As our camp spot worked out well last night we picked another one on common ground just above the town. The views are great!

For us this is what this sort of trip is all about, stopping where you like and enjoying a new view every night!

Of course there are chores to be done, someone has to fry the veggies for the pasta sauce and drink up the excess Russian beer so that we have more room in the fridge for edible food in Mongolia ….. it’s not all fun!

And then there is laying the table in the dining area ….

We wondered why the table was less wobbly than usual …. only noticed that we had ‘plugged’ it into the middle of a cow pat when we came to put it away!

The evening was rounded off by a walk in the hills above our camp spot.

The landscape is much drier now as we have come over a high pass (Seminskiy) and this is a rain shadow area. As we travel east it is going to get really dry …. Gobi Desert! In the evening light it still looks green in the valley above the town. Hard to believe it is only half a kilometer away from the previous picture.

In the morning we had a slow start as Elvira invited us in for a shower …. too good an offer to refuse! So we had breakfast in the restaurant of the hotel so that we had contributed something for our night’s stay and shower!

We then headed off on the M52 further into the Altai. We feel that we are nearly in Mongolia but it is still 500km through the mountains. The road follows the river and there are loads of places to stop or camp.

Further along the M52 the road peels away from the main river and follows a smaller one. Our coffee spot was also a good place to have a quick fish.

Needless to say, we would not be having fish for dinner.

The landscape is still rolling hills and pine forest. Great views as you drive along a very quiet road.

We are starting to see lots more horses around. Most of them are ranging freely over the common land and through villages. I suppose that like the cows they head back in the evening. Some even take the bus.

We stopped between Barlak and Shebalino for Marjool to start work on the Vat return …… funny doing office work in the mountains near Mongolia. What would we do without the internet? Graham’s job was to change the oil and filter. We have only come 10,500 km since leaving home but the oil change interval is 6000 miles and so is just about due. All being well next time should be southern China. Maybe if we spoil the truck a little it will look after us through Mongolia. It’s much less fun draining the oil without the inspection pit.

Once the jobs were done we carried on to Shebalino and drove out the side of the village towards the common land. We knocked on a door and asked if it was ok to sleep there. They were again friendly, one family gave us a big bag of pine nuts to nibble and the family next door came up and asked if we would like to sleep in their house if we got cold! I hope that they would get the same reception if they turned up in our village looking for a place to park for the night?