troopytracks

As planned we got up early and had a quick breakfast before leaving the campsite. We can strongly recommend the National Park campsites. Good value at 120 pence per night, and we were able to plug into a socket and give the batteries a rest! The visitors center is only about 2 km from the camping area and the car park for it is a big natural rock plateau. There is a circular walk of about 4.0km which takes in the rock walls and paintings dating back 3000 to 4000 years ago.

The path down to the rock paintings can get slippery when it is raining as the signs point out.

The paintings showed the life and the animals that were around at the time. The river was full of fish and tigers and elephants roamed the jungle.

All along the cliff were wild bees nests.

Even though it was only about 9.30 am it was already really hot when we got back to the car. We treated ourselves to a bit of icy cool aircon for half an hour as the car had been parked in the full sun. On the way out of the park we stopped of at another one of the rock formations for which the park is famous.

After leaving the park we tried out the Garmin South East Asia routing. It had not worked in Laos, but here in Thailand seems to work a treat. We were now on our way to see Nang and Austin in Tamnop, near Phu Sing. It looked as though, all going well, that we would be with them at 3.30pm. It feels strange to be visiting them in Thailand …. popping in on our way past!

After a few stops to ask the way to the village, we ended up at Tamnop school gates. The kids all came out of their class rooms, and when we mentioned Austin, they wanted to lead us to his house. They all had beaming smiles and were saying …” farang, farang, farang” which means foreigner and is in no way an insult …. its just what we are! As always in Thailand people were incredibly friendly.

Five minutes later Nang arrived on her scooter to lead us to her house. It was lovely to see them both.

Austin had certainly grown! He was a little unsure of us for a while, but was soon back to his normal happy smiling self!

Soon after we arrived we went off on the scooters to visit the family farm. It is about 3km along sandy roads.

It is a lovely place and quite a few acres. They grow various vegetables, rice and have 850 rubber trees. I think they produce about 30kg of rubber per day which they get 35 baht per kg for. Until recently they got 70 baht per kilo but costs have increased for pick up and transport to the processor. As often happens it seems that the farmer has to do most of the work and gets the smallest percentage of the profit. Once we had finished looking at the farm Nang picked up her mum, who had been cutting rice, and headed back to the village.

We had parked Troopy between the house and the rice store, which was handy, but there was no breeze. It was still 30 degrees C at 9.00pm ….. and hard to sleep!

It was a lovely cool night next to the river and very quiet. A quick breakfast and then set off for the National Park. On the way we called our friend Nang who lives close to the Cambodian border and arranged to see her and Austin (her son) on Wednesday. We are really looking forward to it!

We did not take many photos on the way but did chat to some Dutch ladies who were doing a one month cycle trip, most of it along the Mekong, taking in Laos, Cambodia and Thailand. Apparently it is a popular route with lots to see, quiet roads and yummy Thai food on the way! We did see one large black snake crossing the road but were too slow to get a picture. It moved really fast.

One motorbike we saw was even more loaded than normal …..

We arrived at the National Park campsite in time for lunch, and then started catching up with the washing again. It was nice just putting the table and chairs out and relaxing. It was too hot to do the main walk and so we hid in the shade until it cooled down.

The campsite has only two others camping here and they arrived later on. We did meet a really nice French man and his Thai partner. They live in Chambery, and rent out apartments  in Val Thorens. Maybe we will become customers one day!

A bit of a walk, cooking and web updates and another day gone! The first four months of the trip have gone really fast. Then again places like Mongolia seem ages ago ….

Planning to get up early tomorrow to see cave paintings and waterfalls. There is not much shade on the walk and so you need to do it either early or late in the day.

We travelled down the minor road that follows the Mekong towards Don Tan following Aree, Chris and Mary. On the way we stopped off at a small village, which was a point where ferries (long tailed boats) dropped off workers from Laos to work for the day. They then go back in the evening …. sort of commuting. Laos people accept lower wages than local Thais. It must be hard living in Laos as wages are lower but many things are more expensive there.

While we were walking around by the village a man came and wanted to show us the local temple. Every village has one, and the local people are very proud of them. This one had trees that were said to be over 700 years old and a more unusual reclining Buddha.

We carried on down the road and visited a fish farm on the Mekong. They had big problems this year as the Mekong rose over 6m and stayed there for 3 months! Many fish died as the high levels of silt blocked their gills.

They had an ingenious way of bringing the fish up to the top of the bank. There was a pulley system connected to an old motorcycle. I can think of a few gardens in our village which could do with a similar system!

We had coffee with Chris, Aree and Mary and then went our separate ways. We had great fun with them in Mukdahan and we will definitely try to stay in touch in England and maybe even in Thailand again! Lets hope so. Mukdahan was another place that we had never heard of, but will never forget. We also enjoyed meeting Tesco Mick, Edith, Sal, Noy and ‘Miss fix it’, Jang.

We drove on do to Khema Rat and stayed the night right next to the Mekong near the ferry terminal. Great place to stop, quiet and a short walk to shops if you need them (including 7 Eleven).

Aree and Chris drove Mary, Marjool and I to the village where they live for a hair cut. Marjool was first given a head and hair massage followed by a short shoulder massage and then finally a trim.

Graham then had the same treatment and the bill came to 120 baht for the two. Chris then drove us all to Phu Pha Thoeb National Park where we stopped for a BBQ lunch. Just like British Airways the choice was chicken or fish.

The national parks cost around 100 baht each plus 30 baht for the day. The rock formations and the walk up to the falls were certainly worth the entry fee.

The first part of the walk is over a rock plateau and the second part through some tropical woods or jungle. The path then gets steeper up towards the waterfall.

The waterfall is not spectacular, but is in a nice setting and would be great for a quick shower if you had your swimming things. The path continues up the rock to a set of ladders that give access to a Buddah and  the top viewing point. It felt good to stretch our legs.

On the way back we saw beautiful but tiny flowers. Each flower was only a few mm across.

On the way home we saw a motorcycle with standing room only. Out of site on the other side of the pillion passenger is a gigantic basket. Unfortunately you cannot see it in the picture.

When we got back to Aree’s farm we all had a shower, then put up the tent for Mary. We then went back to Sal’s place in Mukdahan for a nice meal prepared by Jang … Thank you! Jang and Noy gave us gifts of tee shirts (for Graham) and silk scarfs for Mary and Marjool. Very kind!

We then had a busy time in the evening with a house warming party, a couple hours at the cowboy themed pub with the live rock band, and finally a dancing bar.

Graham had a slightly unnerving experience when a bloke started to give him a shoulder massage as he was using the urinal …. He politely told him “No thanks”, or words to that effect! Not sure if it is normal practice in Thai bars, or whether Graham is just lucky!! In any case he didn’t go again …..

After breakfast we went for a swim in the pool with Mary (who is a friend/neighbour of Aree and Chris and is staying with them for a month).  The pool is right in front of the camper and just opposite Sal’s house. It seems to be very quiet and we pretty much had it to ourselves.

While we were waiting for Chris and Aree to arrive to take us to Phrathat Phanom, about 70km to the north, we took a couple of pictures of Sal and Jang’s niece Jenny.

The Thai school girls have to have hair cut in short bobs, to keep them cool. It always looks really nice.

When Aree and Chris arrived we headed off to Phrathat Phanom. Outside the temple there were some lovely trees to provide shade. Under the branches there were loads of really pretty flowers.

The temples are incredibly ornate and look lovely in the sunshine.

There are a series of stones laid out in one area, and as we understand it, you kneel in front of them, think of a project or action that you have planned. If the stone feels light and comes up easily, you are ready for the task. If it feels heavy, you are not prepared and should wait. Please tell us if that is correct!

The temple was built by ladies only, and it is said that they worked topless when it was very hot. The ladies finished the temple on time, but the one being built nearby by men was seriously delayed as the men kept finding reasons to visit the ladies site …. can’t think why!

On the way back we stopped to see one of Aree’s good friends. She was a lovely lady and was so excited to see us all. We also met her neighbour who had lovely plants in the garden.

Around the back of the house were a few of the neighbours’ kids who were happy to have their picture taken, as they like to look at the results.

That evening we ate at the night market in Mukdahan with Mary. We had two big platters of fresh pineapple and melon, and a stir fried noodle dish for 3 with vegetables and crab sticks. Total cost 75 baht, which is 150 pence. Great value and delicious!

Edith had kindly offered to help us sort out our temporary motor insurance for Thailand and so we headed back there again. The insurance cost 162 baht to cover us on a third party basis for three months. While we were there we had our aircon checked as it had not been working properly. It was low on freon and once recharged worked perfectly! Edith’s son also suggested that we try an AIS net sim to give us data capability on our phone. Not full 3G but it works perfectly and again enables us to tether the phone to the computer for web updates. Thanks Toyota Mukdahan!

We cooked a stir fry in the camper using best Tesco pork and vegetables and then went with Aree and Chris  to see their farm and rubber plantation. Yet again the contacts here have all originated from our Russian teacher Liuba! She is great at bringing people together. Thank you!

First we met Aree’s aunt who is 84. She is a lovely lady and still shuts and locks the doors at 6.00pm to keep the tigers out! There used to be loads here and even Aree remembers when the last one in her area was shot.

After looking around the farm and the rice fields,  we went to check on the rubber trees which are just about ready to start producing rubber, which is currently in great demand.

The neighbouring farms were already producing and the trees were no bigger, so it looks like it is time to start tapping. It was interesting to see them cut the bark to release the rubber.

The rubber then drips out into the cups until the tree heals itself. The process is then repeated every day.

In the evening we went into Mukdahan town and ate in another riverside restaurant. It was full moon and so there were fireworks and lanterns to buy which you floated down the river with a candle after wishing the bad things in your life to float away with the lantern.

There was a strong wind blowing onshore and the lanterns gathered on the bank. It was also difficult to launch the sky lanterns, but quite a few got off the ground. When we got back to the camper by Sal and Jang’s place, we watched them float away ….. right over Tesco!

One UK pound is about 49 Thai baht.

Diesel is around 30 baht and petrol 34 baht.

Our camp spot by the plane was on the Mekong just by the Friendship Bridge and so to loop around to the border was only a couple of km’s. We passed through the Laos side very easily and although they seemed totally unfamiliar with the carnet, they were ok stamping and signing at the places I pointed at. As normal with the Laos people, all done with a beaming smile. They are lovely people, kind, gentle and however modest their lifestyle, happy and generous. They have had a tough time for all sorts of reasons, but there is no hint of bitterness and they truly seem to enjoy life. Maybe it is because they have been through so much that they appreciate what they have now.

The Thai  border post is very modern and smart, which is immediately on the other side of the bridge. There is a crossover here as they drive on the ‘correct’ side of the road in Thailand! The first time that we have driven on the left since leaving England.

On arriving at the Thai side we filled in the arrival card and as we had the visa, were sent straight through to Customs. We encouraged them to stamp the carnet, although they did not really know what it was. The fact that they could see what the Laos customs had completed made it easier to explain. They had waved us on before another official stopped us and said that it is very important that we have a form called the ‘Information of Conveyance’, also called a TM2. Without it it is supposed to be difficult to exit. If you would like to see what it looks like let us know as we have photographed the document.

Marjool was really excited as we were told that there was a Tesco with all the things that she had dreamed of … chocolate, cakes, biscuits, cheese, fresh milk ….. funny how little we appreciate the variety of food available at home! Just imagine her face when she saw the shelves ….. !!

However as we moved through the aisles there was plenty of things to tempt us. The poor souls whose houses have been flooded are having a really tough time. In Bangkok it is apparently difficult to get anything, including safe drinking water. They are saying here that a third of Thailand is under water … hard to believe. We had not realised how bad it was, as we have not been seeing news or reading news papers.

Outside of Tesco we met a Scot called Mick  who had lived in Thailand for years. He saw that we were driving a Toyota and asked if we had met Edith. She owns the Toyota dealership and is a local magistrate. We needed insurance and she sounded so nice that we decided to go along and check out the price of an oil change. We were quoted the equivelent of 5o pounds to change the oil and filter and adjust the fan belt. As the oil cost 30 pounds in Russia and a filter 15 pounds in the Uk, it seemed an excellent deal! They checked various other fluids and gave it a really good clean.  They were very efficient and professional and were incredibly polite and friendly. I would strongly recommend a pit stop there if you are driving a Toyota.

The car looked new as the mechanics drove it out of the washing area, they had even blacked the tyres. It looked like a different car!

We were picked up from Toyata by Noy, a friend of our host’s girlfriend. We were going to stay the night outside his house and next to the community swimming pool. Sounds great!

In the evening, Noy took us to the night market, a nice restaurant on the bank of the Mekong and then finally to a western (as in cowboys!) bar where they had a band playing. The bar staff were dressed in cowboy gear complete with guns. We played pool and darts with the staff. Great fun and good band.

We spent another day here waiting to pick up our visa. It was a noisy night at the tennis court as everyone in the town tends to have at least two dogs and as soon as one barks, the others all start! It builds to a mad crescendo and then slowly fades away until the next disturbance sets them off. However it was a nice central spot in town meaning that you can wander around in the evening. The countryside is much nicer during the day, but when it gets dark at around 5.45 pm, it can be a long evening in the camper!

We got up early so that we could see the monks ‘taking alms’. People from the town are dotted around a fixed route and the monks walk in line and take offerings of food (usually rice). This happens at 6.00am every day. Marjool had not got up early enough to make rice, but did have a packet of cheese crackers ….. they probably don’t get those every day!

After breakfast we headed down to the river as it is nice and breezy there. Graham fished for a while and caught one tiny fish. The sun then popped over the trees and he retreated to the shade.

The locals were not having much more luck, but it was great to watch.

We picked up our visa at the consulate at 2.00pm. It is really organised, and you are called to the counter in order that you applied the day before to pick up the passport. We had been given a double entry 60 day visa, which would take us through to 7th January. That fits with the timing of shipping the car out of Malaysia mid to end of January.

We decided not to go across the border until the next morning as it normally takes a couple of hours with the car. We had been told that locals can cross until 10.00pm, but for temporary import of foreign cars, we would need to be there before 5.00pm. We found a nice spot by the river by what we thought was a bar. It turned out to be a private site, but they were happy for us to stay. It was an interesting place as it had an old Laos Airways plane in the back garden.

It was another warm night, and at 8.00pm it was still 29 deg C.

After another porridge breakfast (not sure if its the right thing for the tropics!) we emptied our water tank, which we had filled with some smelly bore water in a village a few days before, and filled with water from the guest house. There is nothing worse than weak Chinese tea bags in boiled bore water …. yuk!

The town is a reasonable size, but with the directions given to us from the guest house, and a piece of paper with ‘consulate’ and ‘visa’ written on it in laos, we found the consulate in Chymuang Rd. By the time we got there at 9.15 am there was a small queue. We picked up a form on the other side of the road, which was also filled in by a Laos girl, for a fee of 70pence each. We then took it over to the consulate counter and after ten minutes had submitted it along with our fee of 2000 Thai baht each. This was for a 60 day double entry visa … we hoped. We were told to pick it up at 2.00pm the following day.

We had also been told that there was a temple and stupa that was not to be missed about 15km from the town, and a lake with little huts on the lake, that were nice to relax in.

Before we went in we picked up some flower offerings and Marjool had to put on a traditional Laos skirt. The offerings were made out of banana leaves and flowers.

Once inside we watched as people made their offerings and prayed. They took it all seriously, but at the same time they were all smiling and laughing as they walked in small groups around the site.

The girls who had been praying then went over to a giant gong (I’m sure that that is not the right name!) and rubbed at the centre until it started to resonate. It was an amazing sound! It is like the moving of your finger around the outside of a wine glass until it hums …. just on a massive scale.

All around there were gold coloured buddhas, in all sorts of shape and size. The site here is an important one because  it is over 500 yrs old and is believed to be the burial site of buddha’s bones.

After having lunch, we drove back towards the town, where the lake and huts were. It was almost like a restaurant, but the food and drinks were served in the little huts over the water.

In the evening we headed back to town, where we parked for the night at the tennis club. Nice grass and toilets too!

We continued down route 13, with the temperature rising all the time … or is it just our imagination?! The scenery has changed along this route in so much that there are not so many well defined villages, just long strips of tiny shops, noodle bars and houses. We have also started to see some large wood processing plants. All with big hardwood logs being cut up for timber. There are still lots of untouched forest in Laos, lets hope that it stays there! We had talked about the contrast between Laos and Borneo a couple of times. The poor road system in Laos has slowed the logging, but it seems inevitable that it will gather pace. There is no palm oil here, that seems to be the activity that has led to the destruction of much of Borneo’s rainforest.

We decided to take a turning off the main road to see if we could find our way to some caves. The tourist sign was very old and faded and it turned out that the route was now a dead end. It was good to see that only a few hundred meters off the main road, villages were just as pretty as in the north, and the life was still rural. Just outside one village some water buffalo’s were having a bath … they loved it!

The water buffalo were trying to keep cool, it was now about 32 deg C and we were looking for shade as well!

It was starting to cool down when we made our way back to the main road and continued south to Savannkhet. We briefly took a look at the new Friendship bridge that gives access to Thailand and then headed back towards town. We needed to arrange visas if possible and we had read that it was possible here, and was quieter and easier than Vientiane. We hope so as otherwise will be stuck!

We stopped off at a guest house to see if we could park outside and sleep in the camper, but when shown the big rooms, with aircon and en suite for 7 pounds, we decided to have a room. The lady looking after the place spoke a little English and we needed to ask directions to the consulate building in town, so it was a good find. This is her and her baby.

When we cooked a curry in the evening by the camper, she came over with a big bowl of rice. She also gave us a Lao sticker for the side of the camper. Thank you!

On the way up to the room we saw a praying mantis …. at least judging by its front legs, I assume that’s what it is!

We enjoyed a nice cool night in the room, with the luxury of a shower …. simple pleasures!